True to Type?

Since the 1990s, the Andre Walker Hair Typing System has been used to determine hair types. Ranging from 1A (straight, fine) to 4C (tightly coiled), does the hair type system still have a place in today’s industry? Two hairdressers share their views

PASHCAN'EL MITCHELL, AVLON ART TEAM

I do use the texture chart/classification system in everyday hairdressing, but it all depends on the service I'm giving. I use the system like I would a colour chart, as a reference point. It does help identify the texture I'm working with, and the process and steps that I'm going to take.

I always recommend my clients to come in and see me, a professional, and we can have a consultation about their hair type. During the consultation I can reference the chart, but also look at my client's hair and let them know what they need. As with anything in hairdressing, if you use the wrong products you will not get the results you're looking for.

A word of warning though – the hair classification system can be misleading as it's only a reference point. Client’s hair may look and feel different to a picture or they may have multiple curl types in their hair. It's just a starting point to reference if you're looking to find out the curl pattern, but always stress that consulting a professional is always necessary.

During the consultation I can reference the chart, but also look at my client's hair and let them know what they need. As with anything in hairdressing, if you use the wrong products you will not get the results

LISA FARRALL, FOUNDER, WIG LONDON

The Andre Walker Hair Typing system is dated and I don’t tend to use it on my clients. However it can be a great starting tool to use in education. The best way to explain its limitations is by comparing it to the body shape chart – you know the one that determines whether people are apple shape, pear or hourglass. But that can lead to feelings of not belonging, because not one body type fits in one box and not one dress ‘flatters all’. Plus, who is to say what ‘flattering’ is? A brand that wants to sell what it’s putting on the shelves – that’s who! So we have to understand that this system was originally designed and put in place to sell products. As with body shape, it’s not a one-size-fitsall approach – in fact, most heads are filled with numerous hair type patterns not to mention taking into account density, scalp and style wanted. The hair scale is a tool and sets a bench mark in education to get people talking. Before this classification system, if we are honest, all hair types were not discussed equally. So now the conversation is happening we have to level up and talk about porosity, moisture, density and hair needs too. This chart has a place in education and as an ‘aid’ for those that feel lost in a world where there are so many products. But self-diagnosis will always lead to confusion. My advice is to position yourself as an expert and give a full consultation to diagnose all your client’s curl types, then recommend products to suit their unique, individual hair.

Before this classification system, if we are honest, all hair types were not discussed equally. So now the conversation is happening we have to level up and talk about porosity, moisture, density and hair needs too